My name is Peter Novelan, retired naval officer. I became interested in sharpening knives 35 years ago, when I started working with oilstones while watching my father sharpen a chisel. At that time it was a trial and error method, because there was no internet and none of my friends had the same interest. I started my business, New Edge Sharpening, in Halifax, Canada to make extra money to feed my obsession with waterstones, but business was going well and I really enjoy having a plethora of boring knives to grind.
box] Here is my step-by-step guide for beginners
for sharpening my first knife on Japanese waterstone [/box].
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|400, 1000, 3000, 8000 Pellet Size + rough flat stone||Yes: 1 bamboo base + 2 rubber stone holders||We designed this kit to be complete, the All-in-One kit is perfect for beginners. You can learn the basics and make progress without spending a fortune.|
[Knock on door]
1. START: LESS – MORE THAN
A very sharp knife.
When I decided I wanted to learn how to sharpen my own knives, I was amazed at the amount of sharpening equipment and in my ignorance at the time I thought that the sharper I had knives, the more I would need what I could find. This is error. Today, I only have a handful of goodproducts, I use them every day of the week.
This is what you need to start, and it doesn’t start with a tangible. Success will come quickly if you understand and can imagine what you are doing, what needs to be done to get the knife sharp. My experience with Japanese waterstones , but the same can be said of other methods. By the way, I do not recommend the use of any type of mold or electric mill, I am against these methods, although I understand the desire to try everything… Remember, I thought I needed everything, and I thought it worked.
2. WHEN AND WHY YOU SHOULD SHARPEN THE KNIFE.
I sharpen the knives at the store.
Your kitchen knife will fade when the metal on the main cutting edge wears off and rolls on one or both sides of the blade. This is normal, it must be done regardless of the quality of the steel and the use of the knife. The difference will be when is tired, the better the steel, the longer the edge will last in general. However, I have noticed something with high quality knives such as the Fujiwara , and this could apply to you: I have different brands of knives, from simple knives to my only dream. Theoretically, normal knives with their normal steel should dull faster in normal use. (I mean use at home, not in a professional kitchen and not in the hands of someone who cuts lotuses all day)
My Fujiwara is an exceptional torch and a pure pleasure to use. The result is that mediocre knives break fairly well and a dream knife can take the lion’s share of in the kitchen. So it gets boring faster. It goes without saying that the top steel has improved the preservation of the cutting edge, but in the end the knives become boring, that’s normal, and I’m very happy about that, I can sharpen them over and over again!
Your job as a sharpener is to remove this obsolete metal and expose the steel underneath, the fresh solid steel and the side piecesA and B knives in the precisely assembled apex, seems simple, doesn’t it? It’s like taking a shift and starting over. Of course there is much more than that, but in the simplest sense of the word you want the abrasive properties of the waterstone to grind the aged metal like an eraser.
At first you will approach the task with fear, excitement and a degree of nervousness, but I hope you will be excited about what you are going to do. I can not emphasize the usefulness of sharpening the knife enough, even if you start with , that first taste of herbs that you will not forget and that will make you hungry.
3. PURCHASE REQUIRED SUPPLIES: THEY DON’T NEED MUCH!
In this way you want to have the state of mind and the knowledge of what you want to achieve. For this you need certain supplies. Three Japanese grains Naniwa Chosera , 400, 1000 and 5000 are presented here.
My Japanese water kicks. From left to right: 400, 1000, 5000 gravel.
It’s a great combination, but you don’t need to start. If your budget allows it, starts with a stone, and although I like to start with a rough stone, 400 will be a bit rough to start the learning process, and you would need another stone with a larger grain size to finish. So, if you want to start with a waterstone, which is quite normal, choose a stone with a grain size of 1000, , it will give you a head start that will scare you, with practice of course. Besides, the simple fact that you have a waterstone at your disposal will motivate you, believe me.
My stone stand.
So at least naked, you have a Japanese stone water, a stone standard, commercial or handmade, water, a towel in one form or another, I use microfiber cloths and a knife and a place where you can work without distractions. No music, no television, no mobile phone, just you and stone(s) and your mind in sharpening .
My recommended water stone series:
This is all you need to follow this manual and bring the sharp edge to the knife .
4. READY: A FEW TIPS FOR STARTING
Naniv Hosera waterstone, 400 gravel.
You also need courage.You lead the knife to the waterstone, which is abrasive, and change the edge of the knife, it may look different.
Eventually the metal will disappear. Do not start with a knife in a dollar shop, but with an average quality knife of 8 inches (203 mm) that has not been sharpened outside the factory before. You want to set your course for success, the cheap knife is difficult to sharpen due to the poor quality of the steel. If you are afraid of scratching the blade, you should not do so, but if this worry distracts you, you can remove the fear by taping off the blade with tape, only the blade, not the cutting edge.
Their main goal is just to improve the edge, to make it a little sharper. Take care of your expectations and don’t worry about preparing the knife for eye surgery on the first day. Ignore all those YouTube videos where you see people doing miracles with knives, completely forgotten. They just want to make the knife a little less boring and achieve something that most people will never try. You want to sharpen the taste of with the success of , and this can happen quickly. If you’re reading this, or othergrinding tips, you’re on the right track.
5. STEP BY STEP: FOLLOW ME AND SHARPEN YOUR FIRST KNIFE
5.1 Overview of viewing angles
Hold the knife in your right hand (or left) with your index finger along the back of the knife and hold it so firmly that it does not move during sharpening, but you do not need a deadly grip. Wear shoes and, if possible, stand on a mat that absorbs the stitch if you drop it. (You don’t drop it, but be careful Move your legs when you let go!).
The height of the back of the knife in relation to the underlying stone determines the angle. A typical sharpening angle for a master knife is 19 or 20 degrees on each side. To remove tangled obstacles that may hinder your progress, we simply sharpen the blade to the side at 20 degrees. You can determine the exact height of the stone by measuring the height of the blade at the heel and dividing this number by 3 at an angle of 20 degrees.
Hold the knife at right angles to the rock.
For simplicity we have again chosen a 0.5 inch (12.7 mm) format. But let’s make this part as simple as possible:.
Cut the wine cork so that it measures 0.5 inches and use it as a visual guide. You can hold it at the end of the waterstone and put the back of the knife on it to see what the angle looks like. Now it’s quite elegant, but you still have to learn how to move the knife over the waterstone and hold it at that angle, whether you choose 20 or 15 degrees, so that the pattern becomes an easy part and that angle is stabilized where practice is crucial. You can hold the knife in place with this wine cork, and this is the angle you want to sharpen, but now a piece of cork you have to go on your own. I have taught many people how to sharpen a knife, and believe me, this particular part of the process is not as difficult as many people think! In fact, when you start sharpening the knife, you’ll be motivated enough to do , because it’s not as hard as you thought. After a while you will notice that you don’t have to or don’t want to grind everything 20 degrees, but it is a good starting point for the development of muscle memory.
5.2 Tip with a sharp object
Speaking of developing muscle memory, here is a good exercise for you, a confidence-building exercise: Paint the edge of the blade and the bevel with a sharp object and grind the blade at an angle that allows the blade to be removed with a sharp object. In many cases it will always be close to an angle of 20 degrees. If you are successful, repeat the procedure and does it ten times. Now turn the knife around and do it on the other side, you don’t have to put a lot of pressure on it, just a little. You want to get to the point where you can put the knife on the SRA Sharpie Angle Removal for the first time, every time.
Useful when painting the edges of the knife with a sharp object.
5.3 Continue and check your work.
It is very important to take a break and look at your work while you are working. I use a very good lighting system to get a good view of the edge. See if the chamfers are sharpened regularly, and if not, remember that you are learning, if it were easy, anyone would do it.
My grinding station.
Just hold it and concentrate, visualize the edge and bevel as you grind, and remember what you want to achieve. You have to do it from both sides, for me the hardest thing was to let the other side of the knife go through to the side I started with. I start on the right side of the blade, at the toe, and work my way to the heel. If I do knife to the back , I start with the heel and work towards the toe.
Check your work.
The purpose of this article is simply to put you on the right track, and mind you, this is exactly how I do it: There are many talented grinders who want to pass on theirknowledge. (Besides, I don’t call myself a talented tailor, I only respect so many tailors that I call them so talented that they call me Peter).
5.4 The goal is now to debride.
Your immediate goal is to deburr the other side of the knife. Depending on the steel, the grain size of the stone and the way you do it, the process will either be very fast or it will take forever. Patience here will reward you, believe me. The grinding process is incomplete without burrs on the first stone. (Yes, you can stop at this magical moment without edges, but we’re not there yet, we don’t even have to go, never, I only mention it to make those talented sharpeners happy) Imagine a burr as the debris that dullens a knife by pushing the blade to the edge and the other side of your sharpening art. You form a burr, the knife becomes sharp, not a burr, look at his work. Practical here is the magnifying glass, a cheap magnifier with light, with which you can see the edge well, if you don’t shine, you won’t reach the edge. (With a magnifying glass you also look cool and scientific like aSharpoo )
Getting a swipe is very important.
It will be tempting to lift the wedge here to quickly reach the edge, , which is not the right track. If necessary, repaint the edge/cutter and try again. You can turn the knife over until it is deburred and work on the other side. Feel the burr several times with your thumb, while walking very carefully along the leaf and the edge. If the burr is clearly visible at this point, make a burr along the entire length of the leaf. After you’ve done this, (you’ve done something that most peoplewill never try), but you have to do the same on the other side of the sheet.
Again, burr formation is essential for success, and if you use a 1000 gritstone on a drill bit, it may take some time, but it forms. If you sharpen one side for more than 3-4 minutes, turn the knife over and work on the other side, always feeling a burr with your thumb on the other side you are working on. Remember that the tired metal, with its effect and the abrasive properties of the stone, will push the blade to the edge of the cutting edge.
5.5 Deburring at the tip of the blade
Here’s my video about sharpening the tip of the knife…
Let’s talk about the tip of the knife, again, the stock must be formed. Here’s a simple trick that works. I like to keep it simple. As soon as you reach the tip of the knife, use your front thumb to lift your elbow so that it is parallel to the ground. You can also increase the sharpening angle very slightly, but just lifting the elbow will do wonders and probably solve the problem of the sharpening area of the knife tip, which is a problem for some people.
5.6 Application of correct pressure
I, push the knife to the right.
Pressure is something that is sometimes not mentioned, but according to my experience and opinion it is extremely important to apply the right pressure, I use three different levels of grinding pressure, where my grinding pressure is measured on a scale of 1-5 s 1 is very light and 5 is the maximum pressure of. When you start the grinding process, when all your ducks are lined up and you are ready to start, use the P4 (pressureto 4, almost maximum). In this case, work with the stone and apply a fingerprint (2 or 3 point) as close as possible to the primary edge, , i.e. on the surface to be machined, on the opposite side of the sheet. If you push the knife back in a sliding motion, press the knife P4 as it slides on the wet whey, (whey means grinding) you will see how the black residue in the water starts to form on the surface, is chips and it is ok, do not feel obliged to remove it with water, it is normal. Continue working from the heel to the tip of the knife, moving your fingers along the edge and applying pressure while moving the knife away from you on the right side of the blade, and while moving the knife away from you on the left side, this is called a cutting stroke.
While grinding, imagine in your head what you are doing, try to imagine that the steel rolls to the edge and becomes a burr. Check your work very often, there are clean cloths, I use microfiber cloths and I keep an eye on your progress.
When the pressure is applied in one direction, the pressure is released in the opposite direction. The knife must be pushed from one end of the stone to the other with the fingertips and released by pulling it backwards. You can lift the knife from the stone, but if you don’t, keep this angle stable. Sharpening becomes this repetitive movement, the first step of which consists of lifting the burr on both sides of the knife, from heel to toe.
In my case, , it takes me about 15 minutes to sharpen a drill bit, and 7-8 of them are dedicated to burr formation, the foundation stone. Be careful not to pull on the stone with your fingertips when you move the knife so that the black mud turns black and red after a short time.
5.7 I picked up a ledge! What am I supposed to do now?
Congratulations, it’s time to improve!
Now, suppose you have formed a ledge on both sides, congratulations, your patience and attention to detail now leads to a sharp knife, you are now in the refinement mode, the cool part.
You can make a 1k stone look like three different stones by varying your pressure, and don’t forget that we were on P4, (P5 is also correct, so apply as much pressure as possible, but take a step back and hold the pressure, P4).
Now you are going to use pressure P2, moderate and in this case the stone will do the job, just let the knife run and stabilize it like an amazing waterstone does. Use the same technique, same angle, but with moderate pressure, do not press almost all buttons, you are not trying to form a burr here, this is already done, now frees the edge and bevel and removes some of the remaining scratches from the first step of theprocess. There, the knife will be sharp and it will go fast. Now, remove the burr, you clean the edge, some of that tired metal will want to cling to the mother ship, your moderate pressure will start to remove it, just as reluctantly as when you left, it won’t have a choice. It only takes a few minutes to reach , simulating only the first step, but with less pressure, and this time, when you imagine the burr scraping off, it starts to disappear.
5.8 Final phase
You’re almost there…
After you have gone through the stone several times on both sides, you can proceed to the final phase. This time it is pressure P1, just enough pressure to control the blade Make sure your stone is wet and repeat the movements, but with very light pressure. You really need to concentrate here and make sure you get back to the edge by making a few strokes on each side of the knife.
Let’s finishnow: Again, with pressure P1, , if you lower only, remove the blade from the stone, if you push it yourself over the stone, bring it back and repeat this 5 times, on each side of. The smear must disappear and your knife will be sharp, remember, control your expectations, but if you follow this example, the knife will be sharper than in the beginning, and that is just the beginning. You can now check the cutting edge of the knife by trying to cut out the phonebook paper.
What about counting blows to ensure even grinding on both sides?
No.In my opinion counting tends to automate the process, which should and will become a natural sequence of movements, and counting smears is also very boring. So use your common sense, do not grind on one side for 10 minutes and on the other side for 3 minutes, pay attention to the visual checks.
5.9 Useful video
I know it’s very useful to watch videos of this process and the best knife cutting videos I’ve seen for you. If you watch one person sharpening the knife, you will see John Broide of the Japanese Importmes. Extremely professional and easy to understand video. I have some videos on on my site, but I really like what John did for the sharpening community.
Here I sharpen a knife on Japanese stones from start to finish…
In short, here are all the steps you need to follow to get a nice edge on your boring knife:
- Get the necessary ingredients to make the knife sharp.
- Keep it simple, you don’t have to spend a lot of money to send the ball around after the success and obsession of sharpening.
- You find a way to spend your money by sharpening supplies. (Sharpie doesn’t forget)
- Understand what you are doing and if you are willing, focused and able to concentrate, enter the process and enjoy it, don’t worry.
- Find angle for your kitchen knife and train your muscle memory so you don’t have to search for this angle every time.
- Pressure is the most important thing, if doubt minimizes it, it should be approached as dismantling a bomb, with care and determination.
- Lift the burr on both sides of the leaf.
- Remove the burr completely.
- Make sure the knife is sharp by trying to cut the paper from the phonebook.
- Repeat this a few times and see that you are constantly improving.
- Kiss the four sharpening sticks: Passion,Practice,Durability,Patience.
I am happy to share information, feel free to give me feedback if you are stuck or need advice on waterstones. By the way, if you have more than one stone, start with small stones and repeat the process on each stone. But simply press P4 on the foundation stone, which increases the burr pressure. It has to be moderated afterwards to make it easy.
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